Clutch pack replacement - supplimental tips

[Pursuvant]

Here is the good stuff searchin about how to replace a clutch written up by some of the best folks on this site, @mossrider, @shinyribs, @Cruizin, and bunch more of the good folks, spread out across different threads. Read all the threads that come back from this search (by clicking my hyperlink "searchin" above) if you are unsure about clutch change.

I'll toss in a few ideas that might help as well, but read everybody else explaining first, then consider this...

(1) There is a trick to getting the clutch arm (that the clutch cable pulls directly on at the clutch cover) in the right position so that the stamp on the arm aligns with the stamp on the clutch cover/right case cover. So try this, when you are first full of pizz an vinegar to put your new clutch in, stop as soon as you pull the clutch cover off, and try to put in back on with clutch arm in the right position. You won't get it right, but keep trying, do it 5 or 6 times until you can do it right, before going any further with the maintenance. Your brain will remember how to get it back on, when you need it, if you practice till you get it right up front.

(2) You might just want to order 1 x Yamaha 93306-00105, it's the bearing that the clutch pull rod pulls on to relieve the pressure plate pushing on the clutch stack when you pull the clutch lever. Check your bearing when you take off the pressure plate. If any doubt, replace that bearing. EDIT - Get a new water pump O-Ring  1 x 1WS-12439-00-00 , because yes.

(3) On metal plates, it's "sharp edge out". If you check the outside diameter of each metal clutch plate, they have a "sharp" and a "round" outside edge (stamped part). Put the metal plates on the clutch stack with the "sharp edge" OUT. Yes you can find people arguing about in/out on metal plates online, but look at your own notes you took when you were pulling each plate off the stack one at a time and "building" a pile of the old plates in the order they came off ( you did make some notes on each pad you took off, right? ) Little things like what "tower opening" gets the plate tab when the new clutch plates get put on - and was the sharp edge IN or OUT.

(4) Starting with the first fiber plate you put on, make sure all the plates with tab projections get a plate tab in the "tower opening" directly below the little stamped triangle on the clutch hub until you get to the last fiber plate to go on the stack - the last fiber plate, it gets clocked - so read on to (5) below.

(5) The red circle is around the last fiber plate on the stack, just after I put it on. Notice that if you've done everything groovy prior to this last plate, you will have placed every plate prior to the last plate, with it's plate projection tab in the "tower opening" under that stamped triangle on the hub in the pic below. BUT put the last plate in the stack, (one of the two special fiber plates) with it's plate projection tab  clocked "one tower notch back" in the "tower opening" circled in RED below - NOT in the triangle "tower opening" (far right in pic) where all the previous plate projection tabs have gone (obviously I don't know what to call the "tabs" on the fiber plates with tabs)

 

(6) You can save some grief with the clutch case cover gasket moving while you're fanagling that clutch cable lever with the pull rod, by picking up some Pematex "High Tack" gasket sealer, and goop one side of the gasket then stick it on (your choice, either the engine case side or on the clutch cover you pulled off). I went against common wisdom and put the Permatex goop on the clutch cover side of the gasket, because the next time I pull this cover off there will be very little gasket sticking to the engine case (no goop), but more on the clutch cover - and because you can take the cover over to your work bench and clean it while you're sitting down rocking out to Devo (you know that hit "don't stick, don't stick, don't stick that gasket to me" - wait, maybe that was Sting, but what ever it's still advice.

That's all I got, my bike is built the way I want it, and I already published my good stuff on this site, all I got time for now is to RIDEBABY

[shinyribs]

No clue how I made that list but I'll reinforce the part about flipping steels / the sharp edge vs rolled edge thing. I decided to test it once and intentionally flip flipped each steel while installing a CB750 clutch.  It was noticably spongy feeling. It's definitely worth paying attention to! 

[Pursuvant]

Just now, shinyribs said:

 I decided to test it once and intentionally flip flipped each steel while installing a CB750 clutch

You just proved why your on the list, because you've done real stuff.

I got a long list of people I pay extra attention too, so I just grabbed a few who posted from other "how to clutch" threads. This site is full of smart folks, I'll just say thanks to everyone who is here, doing their thing. Everybody has helped me, with my thing

[ElGonzales]

I printed this as a PDF and saved it next do the slipper clutch conversion PDF    This kind of preparation makes sure that my clutch will never ever fail. 

[noodles]

I just replaced my clutch pack and I made sure to put the last plate staggered  and I put the cover back on so the marks on the arm and the clutch cover aligned. My lever is stupid soft and somethings obviously not right... I'm guessing a plate wasn't totally flush when I put it together? I have to take it all back apart now Learn from my lesson folks, adjust the clutch lever before you fill it with fluids again!!! 

[T7Rid3r]

On 8/25/2022 at 10:03 PM, noodles said:

I just replaced my clutch pack and I made sure to put the last plate staggered  and I put the cover back on so the marks on the arm and the clutch cover aligned. My lever is stupid soft and somethings obviously not right... I'm guessing a plate wasn't totally flush when I put it together? I have to take it all back apart now Learn from my lesson folks, adjust the clutch lever before you fill it with fluids again!!! 

Did you figure out what it was at the end? Doing this job too soon and want to make sure I am prepared for when it goes wrong 

[Pursuvant]

This thread has two great references if you have a clutch job in your future.

(1) @mossrider video on getting the clutch cover back on with the clutch pull arm properly aligned following the Service Manual approach and

(2) @Evill_Ed has a clever alternative for aligning the clutch pull arm by removing the clutch arm split ring and letting pull rod self-index. Much thanks to Evil Ed for this, I'm looking forward to learning a better way to align clutch pull arm next time I do this (and it won't be long, I'm at 82K+).

And my tip for myself, is take one old clutch plate off at a time and place it face down (and make notes about what tower opening it was in, if it was steel, fiber, sharp edge in or out). Place each plate as you go face down on top of previous plate so you build a "clutch stack" out of the old plates in the right order and tower opening position.

That used plate stack is your "guide" - put new plates on bike, referring to the old plate stack. You will get the right new plates on the bike in the right order and tower opening by following the used stack.

And I think replacing this pull rod bearing every other time you do a clutch job, or if it feels funny when you turn it with your finger.

1 x Yamaha 93306-00105

 

[noodles]

On 9/13/2023 at 2:50 AM, T7Rid3r said:

Did you figure out what it was at the end? Doing this job too soon and want to make sure I am prepared for when it goes wrong 

I did, I figured out I had to have the control arm pivoted away from the punch marks aligned such that when the teeth meshed and the case was seated, the marks were aligned. When I posted this last year, I had the lunch marks slightly misaligned... In other words, off by probably 1 tooth. Trial and error about 6 times meant I did get it to work again.

The lesson is, put the case on, put in a few bolts finger tight  and the clutch guide cable bracket, and reattach the clutch cable to see how it feels. You'll know right away if it's too loose. It might be too tight, but then, how did you get the cable attached to the arm again, Superman?? 

[ElGonzales]

I don't know what Superman chooses, but one can take an open-end wrench to move the clutch arm easily. I think it was a 17, but I am not sure. 
Learned it while installing a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder down there.

(And I can't find the quote button anywhere )

[Pursuvant]

5 hours ago, noodles said:

...I figured out I had to have the control arm pivoted away from the punch marks aligned such that when the teeth meshed and the case was seated, the marks were aligned....

I yapped on and on, trying to say what you communicated in 1 sentence.

Listen to da man!

[hakman]

On 3/28/2022 at 11:22 AM, Pursuvant said:

Here is the good stuff searchin about how to replace a clutch written up by some of the best folks on this site, @mossrider, @shinyribs, @Cruizin, and bunch more of the good folks, spread out across different threads. Read all the threads that come back from this search (by clicking my hyperlink "searchin" above) if you are unsure about clutch change.

I'll toss in a few ideas that might help as well, but read everybody else explaining first, then consider this...

(1) There is a trick to getting the clutch arm (that the clutch cable pulls directly on at the clutch cover) in the right position so that the stamp on the arm aligns with the stamp on the clutch cover/right case cover. So try this, when you are first full of pizz an vinegar to put your new clutch in, stop as soon as you pull the clutch cover off, and try to put in back on with clutch arm in the right position. You won't get it right, but keep trying, do it 5 or 6 times until you can do it right, before going any further with the maintenance. Your brain will remember how to get it back on, when you need it, if you practice till you get it right up front.

(2) You might just want to order 1 x Yamaha 93306-00105, it's the bearing that the clutch pull rod pulls on to relieve the pressure plate pushing on the clutch stack when you pull the clutch lever. Check your bearing when you take off the pressure plate. If any doubt, replace that bearing. EDIT - Get a new water pump O-Ring  1 x 1WS-12439-00-00 , because yes.

(3) On metal plates, it's "sharp edge out". If you check the outside diameter of each metal clutch plate, they have a "sharp" and a "round" outside edge (stamped part). Put the metal plates on the clutch stack with the "sharp edge" OUT. Yes you can find people arguing about in/out on metal plates online, but look at your own notes you took when you were pulling each plate off the stack one at a time and "building" a pile of the old plates in the order they came off ( you did make some notes on each pad you took off, right? ) Little things like what "tower opening" gets the plate tab when the new clutch plates get put on - and was the sharp edge IN or OUT.

(4) Starting with the first fiber plate you put on, make sure all the plates with tab projections get a plate tab in the "tower opening" directly below the little stamped triangle on the clutch hub until you get to the last fiber plate to go on the stack - the last fiber plate, it gets clocked - so read on to (5) below.

(5) The red circle is around the last fiber plate on the stack, just after I put it on. Notice that if you've done everything groovy prior to this last plate, you will have placed every plate prior to the last plate, with it's plate projection tab in the "tower opening" under that stamped triangle on the hub in the pic below. BUT put the last plate in the stack, (one of the two special fiber plates) with it's plate projection tab  clocked "one tower notch back" in the "tower opening" circled in RED below - NOT in the triangle "tower opening" (far right in pic) where all the previous plate projection tabs have gone (obviously I don't know what to call the "tabs" on the fiber plates with tabs)

 

(6) You can save some grief with the clutch case cover gasket moving while you're fanagling that clutch cable lever with the pull rod, by picking up some Pematex "High Tack" gasket sealer, and goop one side of the gasket then stick it on (your choice, either the engine case side or on the clutch cover you pulled off). I went against common wisdom and put the Permatex goop on the clutch cover side of the gasket, because the next time I pull this cover off there will be very little gasket sticking to the engine case (no goop), but more on the clutch cover - and because you can take the cover over to your work bench and clean it while you're sitting down rocking out to Devo (you know that hit "don't stick, don't stick, don't stick that gasket to me" - wait, maybe that was Sting, but what ever it's still advice.

That's all I got, my bike is built the way I want it, and I already published my good stuff on this site, all I got time for now is to RIDEBABY

Hey all..

 

I'm reading the service manual alongside this and it says friction plates of type 1 (the first and last plate) should be aligned with punch mark; the friction plates of type 2 are to be aligned to the triangle, as you've mentioned.  However, I'm referring to the Tenere 700 manual, but assuming it's the same as it's the same CP2 engine.  

What's not clear to me is that your post seems to only offset the last plate.  Have I missed something or is this what you've done?  If it's, may I ask why? .

Here's the snip from my the manual:

 

Cheers

[sweetscience]

The first friction plate cannot be offset because its tangs won't fit between the fingers of the clutch basket. It is only the last friction plate to be offset.   

[hakman]

5 hours ago, sweetscience said:

The first friction plate cannot be offset because its tangs won't fit between the fingers of the clutch basket. It is only the last friction plate to be offset.   

Ah okay, makes sense then. Thanks for the clarification .  Will have a look later today as new parts coming soon. 

[sweetscience]

Is your clutch slipping?  I'm curious what your mileage and riding style is with now worn clutch plates.

[hakman]

Shattered a plate.  15k miles.  Previously noticed it was sticking on a cold start.  Taking off in first it sort of juddered a bit.  Was planning to have a good look on next oil change and didn't think much of it.

Went for a ride other day, same judder feeling when taking off then it went away.  Started popping a few wheelies and hit some small dirt trails.  As I came to set of traffice lights and as I engaged the clutch and found biting point I could hear ticking sound.  Could still shift, but just felt awfully wrong.  Hit google and found this youtube video where a chap had a little drop and then had same sound; he eventually cracked it open and found a shattered plate.  I followed suit and found the same.

I got an EBC kit with new springs and in the process of installing.  Funny enough, the EBC friciton plates are all the same type, not like Yamaha stock.  So I've put them all in the same way and left the final one offset.  The EBC plates also and notches on two tabs that are opposite each other.  One with one notch and the other with two (or three, can't remember lol).  I just kept them all aligned with same notches apart from last one. 

Yet to close case with new gasket.  Was scraping old stuff off then got interrupted with family duties .  Hopefully get it sorted tonight or tomorrow morning. 

But strange how fragile it has been.

 

[ThePinkFluffyARMY]

On 11/14/2023 at 8:15 PM, hakman said:

Shattered a plate.  15k miles.  Previously noticed it was sticking on a cold start.  Taking off in first it sort of juddered a bit.  Was planning to have a good look on next oil change and didn't think much of it.

Went for a ride other day, same judder feeling when taking off then it went away.  Started popping a few wheelies and hit some small dirt trails.  As I came to set of traffice lights and as I engaged the clutch and found biting point I could hear ticking sound.  Could still shift, but just felt awfully wrong.  Hit google and found this youtube video where a chap had a little drop and then had same sound; he eventually cracked it open and found a shattered plate.  I followed suit and found the same.

I got an EBC kit with new springs and in the process of installing.  Funny enough, the EBC friciton plates are all the same type, not like Yamaha stock.  So I've put them all in the same way and left the final one offset.  The EBC plates also and notches on two tabs that are opposite each other.  One with one notch and the other with two (or three, can't remember lol).  I just kept them all aligned with same notches apart from last one. 

Yet to close case with new gasket.  Was scraping old stuff off then got interrupted with family duties .  Hopefully get it sorted tonight or tomorrow morning. 

But strange how fragile it has been.

 

Have u tried running it yet bought the same kit and was kinda of confused with the first and last plate