SoCal1904 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Anyone know if its harmful to the bike in the long run if you ride off right after starting it up and not allowing it to warm up? I do it a few times a week since i have the 2 bros exhaust and leave for work at 4am and dont want to wake up my neighbors letting the engine run right outside their house. Im just wondering if its gonna mess with the bike in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryderjay Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Modern engines only need about 30 seconds of runtime to be properly lubricated, however you should allow the bike to reach temp before doing any hard acceleration/ wot stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted March 30, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted March 30, 2015 Cannot say for the bike but my Porsche says in the manual not to warm it up. I have almost 200,000 miles on it and have never warmed it up. I do drive it cautiously until it is up to temp though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fooschnickens Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I usually let it run while I strap on my helmet and gloves then take off. That's usually enough time for the thermostat to be able to register an actual temperature other that "lo". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanner68 Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Like others above side. The first minute or even less is most important. I turn it on, put on my helmet and gloves, and wait a few more moments until it switches from "lo" and starts registering numbers. I think you are GTG by then. Then I am gentle on the bike until it warms up more, as I ride. I think the machine is designed to be used that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkH Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Man, sometimes it takes 2 minutes for my engine to get out of Lo. Its like an eternity! I visit here at least once a week. Got any questions, ask and I will answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 And yer likely going slowly to make even less noise for the neighbors. Perfect. The motor will warm up way quicker with you driving at a moderate speed and load than just sitting there idling and wasting fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted March 30, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 30, 2015 Like others have stated, I believe the main thing is to get the oil circulating more so than warmed up. Unless it's seriously cold, like Siberia cold, there's probably no need to wait more than a few seconds. Just don't fire it up and do a power wheelie off into the sunrise and you're good. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montyst Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Was always told be a mechanic friend, that the most damage is done by running a multi-pot engine left sitting on a sidestand. He says that insufficient oil is pushed the right hand side of the engine and wear to the right side is always more prevalent. Don't know whether its utter b0**0cks, but always start mine, off stand and sitting upright! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryderjay Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Was always told be a mechanic friend, that the most damage is done by running a multi-pot engine left sitting on a sidestand. He says that insufficient oil is pushed the right hand side of the engine and wear to the right side is always more prevalent. Don't know whether its utter b0**0cks, but always start mine, off stand and sitting upright! Here's why that's a load of bollocks. Oil is pumped into each cylinder which ensures it's properly lubricated. Most motorcycles today use wet sump systems, however Harley still uses dry sump system where the oil is stored in a separate container and is pumped via an external oil pump. Harley's have three oil containers due to their dry sump system, other bikes have one oil container for the entire engine and transmission, the engine is fed oil via the pump which then lubes the clutch via gravity and contact with resting oil in the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montyst Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Here's why that's a load of bollocks. Oil is pumped into each cylinder which ensures it's properly lubricated. Most motorcycles today use wet sump systems, however Harley still uses dry sump system where the oil is stored in a separate container and is pumped via an external oil pump. Harley's have three oil containers due to their dry sump system, other bikes have one oil container for the entire engine and transmission, the engine is fed oil via the pump which then lubes the clutch via gravity and contact with resting oil in the pan. b0**0cks it is then! 8D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FT Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Here's why that's a load of bollocks. Oil is pumped into each cylinder which ensures it's properly lubricated. Most motorcycles today use wet sump systems, however Harley still uses dry sump system where the oil is stored in a separate container and is pumped via an external oil pump. Harley's have three oil containers due to their dry sump system, other bikes have one oil container for the entire engine and transmission, the engine is fed oil via the pump which then lubes the clutch via gravity and contact with resting oil in the pan. b0**0cks it is then! 8D I am surprised this post didn't deteriorate into one of those oil brand or dinosaur oil VS synthetic oil rat holes. You get zero mileage while idling so riding right off makes sense, but if you have to go 2 blocks on a cold day then accelerate like crazy to merge into high speed commuter traffic, a bit of warming up in advance may be a good idea. Nice thing about the FZ07 motor is that it doesn't take high RPM to get up to road speed. The Castrol film makes a good point about the transmission and clutch sharing the oil with the engine. 3 completely different jobs!. I bet a lot of the metallic junk on the magnetic drain plug is gear metal an not engine metal. AND... BMWs in the 70s and 80s would smoke a little after sitting a while on it's side stand because oil would wash back down (up) the cylinder. I bet the L/H cylinders showed less wear after 100K miles if maybe a little sootier plug tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 My 2 R bikes and my K(supposedly with pinned rings so it wouldn't happen) smoked like chimneys at start-up now and then. Oddly enough, it happened with the motor hot after a bit of a sit more than cold. As for wear, i had the jugs off of both R bikes. (1st one was to lower compression after leaded premium disappeared, the 2nd was to have hardened valve seats put in cause it really should have been running leaded premium when BMW said it didn't need) Never noticed anymore wear on the right side than the left. The plugs always looked about the same as well. If only our bike came OE with a magnetic drain plug to get rid of those metal bits, where ever they originate from. Everyone should do this modification at the1st service, whether they do it themselves or not. Judging by my Aprilia, it takes a whole lot of miles before the magnet comes out clean. OK, here it is, full synthetic oil helps in this regard. I saw a noticeable change in magnetic spooge on that bike when I switched from a hybrid to full synthetic. That was Amsoil. It's going into my FZ atthe next change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member snowdriftless Posted March 31, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 31, 2015 I cant remember where I read this (The article is about Diesel Trucks), but it said 1 hour of idling was equal to driving 20 to thirty miles. I agree with everyone here 30 seconds should be all you need. Enough for me to put on my helmet and gloves. P1: Vice? I have no vice, I'm as pure as the driven snow! P2: Yeah but you've been drifting All the gear all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted March 31, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 31, 2015 I cant remember where I read this (The article is about Diesel Trucks), but it said 1 hour of idling was equal to driving 20 to thirty miles. I agree with everyone here 30 seconds should be all you need. Enough for me to put on my helmet and gloves. I read something similar, but it was 1 hour equates to roughly 30-40 miles in terms of engine wear. I was researching old Crown Vic's (police interceptor), and that ultimately deterred me, cause most offerings were 400+ idle hours plus 100k miles. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member snowdriftless Posted March 31, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 31, 2015 I cant remember where I read this (The article is about Diesel Trucks), but it said 1 hour of idling was equal to driving 20 to thirty miles. I agree with everyone here 30 seconds should be all you need. Enough for me to put on my helmet and gloves. I read something similar, but it was 1 hour equates to roughly 30-40 miles in terms of engine wear. I was researching old Crown Vic's (police interceptor), and that ultimately deterred me, cause most offerings were 400+ idle hours plus 100k miles. I had a Crown Vic in High School. It had 270k miles on it from it's former life as a Police Car and Taxi. I would park it on the street in front of our house and everyone would slow down because they thought it was a cop car. I loved that thing. It was running fine until I went off to college. My brother started driving it and never checked the oil. The engine seized on the way to school one day. RIP. P1: Vice? I have no vice, I'm as pure as the driven snow! P2: Yeah but you've been drifting All the gear all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryderjay Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I cant remember where I read this (The article is about Diesel Trucks), but it said 1 hour of idling was equal to driving 20 to thirty miles. I agree with everyone here 30 seconds should be all you need. Enough for me to put on my helmet and gloves. I read something similar, but it was 1 hour equates to roughly 30-40 miles in terms of engine wear. I was researching old Crown Vic's (police interceptor), and that ultimately deterred me, cause most offerings were 400+ idle hours plus 100k miles. As a former LEO I can tell you that no one should EVER buy a retired police vehicle unless it was used by command members. I got one of the first chargers at my dept thank god. Before that I had a 99 crown Vic that smelled awful from the piss/blood/puke/ spit that it went through over the years. We NEVER shut off our cars so they idle all the time. When they aren't idling they are being driven very hard. Curb jumping, off roading, light collisions, heavy collisions. They are put through hell to sum it up. My charger was rear ended, giant rock / Boulder was thrown on the hood by a guy who refused to be arrested for skipping a court appearance, it was used to ram two vehicles, had the suspension replaced once, exhaust was replaced, several body shop appearances. All This was just during my time with it, lord knows what it's been through since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted March 31, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted March 31, 2015 I drove an ex-state patrol Crown Vic once. I hated it because whoever you were following would slow down to five under the speed limit. I did enjoy parking by the side of the road and then pulling out quickly after someone passed by . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted April 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 1, 2015 I'm sure they take a beating, there were some really rough ones on the lot. I was eyeing a couple of administrative vehicles in good shape but the mpg eventually deterred me. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Guru Posted April 1, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted April 1, 2015 It's important for an engine to reach operating temperatures as quickly as possible without stressing the engine. Which effectively means that you start the engine, put on your helmet and gloves (the 30 seconds mentioned), and go. By actually riding it while it is still relatively cold, it will heat up quicker and the difference in temperature of the components is smaller, the temperature buildup is more linear. Just take it easy the first couple of miles (not full throttle or full revs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member freeman Posted April 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 1, 2015 I have the same situation with leaving for work at 4am with a M4 exhaust. I usually put on all my gear, crank it and roll out before the neighbors wake up. By the time i get to the main road, it's already out of "lo" temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FT Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I cant remember where I read this (The article is about Diesel Trucks), but it said 1 hour of idling was equal to driving 20 to thirty miles. I agree with everyone here 30 seconds should be all you need. Enough for me to put on my helmet and gloves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FT Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I read something similar, but it was 1 hour equates to roughly 30-40 miles in terms of engine wear. I was researching old Crown Vic's (police interceptor), and that ultimately deterred me, cause most offerings were 400+ idle hours plus 100k miles.As a former LEO I can tell you that no one should EVER buy a retired police vehicle unless it was used by command members. I got one of the first chargers at my dept thank god. Before that I had a 99 crown Vic that smelled awful from the piss/blood/puke/ spit that it went through over the years. We NEVER shut off our cars so they idle all the time. When they aren't idling they are being driven very hard. Curb jumping, off roading, light collisions, heavy collisions. They are put through hell to sum it up. My charger was rear ended, giant rock / Boulder was thrown on the hood by a guy who refused to be arrested for skipping a court appearance, it was used to ram two vehicles, had the suspension replaced once, exhaust was replaced, several body shop appearances. All This was just during my time with it, lord knows what it's been through since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FT Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I'm a synthetic oil believer too. It stays on the parts better after the engine has been sitting all winter then spun uplease to 9,000 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phicurious86 Posted April 5, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 5, 2015 If only our bike came OE with a magnetic drain plug to get rid of those metal bits, where ever they originate from. Everyone should do this modification at the1st service, whether they do it themselves or not. Judging by my Aprilia, it takes a whole lot of miles before the magnet comes out clean. OK, here it is, full synthetic oil helps in this regard. I saw a noticeable change in magnetic spooge on that bike when I switched from a hybrid to full synthetic. That was Amsoil. It's going into my FZ atthe next change. Have you done this mod? If so, what bolt did you use? I was looking here: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=magnetic%20drain%20plug%20yamaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.