Premium Member jake Posted April 5, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 5, 2015 If only our bike came OE with a magnetic drain plug to get rid of those metal bits, where ever they originate from. Everyone should do this modification at the1st service, whether they do it themselves or not. Judging by my Aprilia, it takes a whole lot of miles before the magnet comes out clean. OK, here it is, full synthetic oil helps in this regard. I saw a noticeable change in magnetic spooge on that bike when I switched from a hybrid to full synthetic. That was Amsoil. It's going into my FZ atthe next change. Have you done this mod? If so, what bolt did you use? I was looking here: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=magnetic%20drain%20plug%20yamaha I think it nice to see if you are having excessive ware if you find chunks get that thing in asap. But the oil is picked up and then runs threw the filter and then back into the engine. So the filter catches all the bad stuff any way the magnetic plug just keeps it so you can see it. 2015 FZ-07 2003 2014 GSXR 1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Modern engines only need about 30 seconds of runtime to be properly lubricated, however you should allow the bike to reach temp before doing any hard acceleration/ wot stuff. What he said. My dad was a mechanic and he always said to give it a minute for the oil to reach the top before raising the rpm's. Think of your engine as your woman ... you want it wet before you goose it. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I drove an ex-state patrol Crown Vic once. I hated it because whoever you were following would slow down to five under the speed limit. I did enjoy parking by the side of the road and then pulling out quickly after someone passed by . I like your style, we should have beer together. P-) Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommyvto Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Please let it find a tempature before u jet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Have you done this mod? If so, what bolt did you use? I was looking here: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=magnetic%20drain%20plug%20yamaha I think it nice to see if you are having excessive ware if you find chunks get that thing in asap. But the oil is picked up and then runs threw the filter and then back into the engine. So the filter catches all the bad stuff any way the magnetic plug just keeps it so you can see it. Judging by the spooge I've seen on any bike motor/grearbox drain I've pulled out that's had a magnet, I'd say the filter doesn't get everything. Judging by the reflective bits in my 1st oil change on the FZ w/o the magnet, I'm still gonna wish it came with. You also have to remember, that the pump pushes unfiltered oil into the filter and then the motor. So all of those break-in bits that will eventually get caught in the filter are causing wear to the oil pump before that happens. I can't remember the thread size off the top of my head. They are common as stink. I actually had one left-over from a 1990s BMW drive shaft that had some questionable threads from the factory - that was before I owned dies to clean them up. A lot of the metal bits comes from the gearbox. BMWs of old had magnetic plugs in the gearbox and the final drive, but not the crankcase sump. My Subaru's gearbox and rear drive also have magnets. My Aprilia's dry sump tank has just a plain bolt. But the secondary drain at the gearbox ( one oil supply for the bike) came with a magnet that now comes up clean. Not so for the 1st few thousands of miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phicurious86 Posted April 7, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 7, 2015 I'll see what my mechanic says about the bolt size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member jake Posted April 7, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 7, 2015 Rick I agree for the price of a plug its a peace of mind 2015 FZ-07 2003 2014 GSXR 1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phicurious86 Posted April 8, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 8, 2015 14mm x 1.5mm x 16mm for the bolt dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 > He says that insufficient oil is pushed the right hand side of the engine and wear to the right side is always more prevalent. Well, yes and no. Does your mechanic work on 70's or early 80's UJMs? He's probably talking cam wear and yes, the cam lobes on the left are sitting in a nice pool of oil while those on the right are high and "dry" until the oil pump pressurizes and once more bathes said journals in warm, luscious oil. Modern engines do a better job of coming up to pressure faster, and some have even designed the heads to deliberately pool oil. Most bikes never see 50,000 miles so it's a non-issue in practical terms. If the metallurgy of the cams or their journals sucks (happens to even Ducatis), then the relative lack of oil on startup can be evident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sansnombre Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Our engines and, especially, contemporary oils have been designed to allow a very quick start with no warm-up to speak of. Essentially the time it takes to tighten your helmet and get your gloves on is enough. Because motorcycle oils lubricate the transmission in addition to general lubrication, the oil comes up to temperature QUICKER when you ride off, because of the friction and energies created in the gearbox. So it's actually better for the bike to have a gentle ride as it warms up, rather than a static idle. Also, the forces on the cams and followers/rockers are modestly lower when your rpms are up a bit rather than at idle, so that also bespeaks of riding to warm-up. A previous poster commented about not going WFO or high RPM running until you warm up, and this is good advise. In short, after half a minute or so, ride, just on the gentle side for a bit, and you're in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Another tip is to use oil that's thinner when cold 10-40 rather than 15-40 as it will circulate faster on cold start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armourbl Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Unless you are starting the bike up during the cold of winter, then I wouldn't worry too much. I've always been told that getting the engine to operating temp quickly is the best thing you can do for the motor -- nothing makes that happen more quickly than actually driving the bike. Something about until the motor gets to full operating temp it is actually doing damage, acidic reaction, moisture, etc., are the most harmful below operating temp. Like someone else said, just don't go running it to the rev limiter or romp on the engine until it is at proper operating temp. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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