MWR vs DNA air filter...DYNO TESTED!!!

[pgeldz]

Hi everyone...
 
So, it's finally time to do my 8K service, and I thought I'd change my DNA air filter to a new one.  I'm pretty particular, so I never just clean, re-oil, and reuse these "reusable" filters...I just buy a new one.
 
I figured instead of ordering a new DNA filter from Greece (there are no US distributors), I'd try something else.
 
The guys from work all love the MWR air filters.  I never even heard about them before I started working there.  Did some light research, and it seems the Ducati guys and 2015+ R1 guys rave about them.  Plus, the factory Kawasaki World Superbike team uses them and they've been dominating for the last two years so how bad can they be?
 
I'm like, it's just a foam filter, how can it be so good?  I figured I'd give it a go.
 
Due to MWR airfilters being entirely constructed from foam and having no rubber mountings or mouldings MWR are able to utilize nearly 100% of the available area as filter element, improving air flow and increase performance.
 
They make 4 types of filters, in this performance order - Performance, HE (high efficiency), Race, and WSBK.
 
The filter material is the same for the Performance and HE.  This would be competitive with your K&N, DNA, etc., as in, they provide a performance gain with similar filter change intervals.
 
The Race and WSBK filters uses a different foam, which give much more performance, at the expense of filter change intervals, i.e., after a race weekend they need to be cleaned and re-oiled.
 
The only filter they make for the FZ-07 is the Performance filter.
 
So, after changing to new OEM plugs for the 8k service, I decided to try the MWR filter and do some dyno testing.
 
Since the plugs were new, and the DNA filter was over a year old now, it wouldn't be a fair test, so I ended up ordering a brand new DNA filter so it would be an apples to apples comparison.
 
In both instances, I was using the DNA airbox cover, so this is a straight up test between filters only.  The DNA airbox cover is essentially like removing the stock snorkel, only it provides a nice radius edge for smooth airflow entry into the airbox.
 
 
Some pics to get started...
 
 
 
DNA airbox cover:
 

 
 
 
 
DNA air filter:
 

 
 
 
 
MWR air filter:
 

 
 
 
 
MWR air filter (bottom side):
 

 
 
 
 
You can see the bottom of the MWR filter is all foam, so theoretically, there is more surface area for air to pass through.
 
 
Ok, on to the dyno testing...
 
 
It's important to note few things to understand the methodology behind this test.  My aim was to find out which filter performed better.  The test will show 3 different dyno charts, all on different days, and 2 were from a different dyno.  Because different conditions and different dynos produce different numbers, and one dyno used correction factors and one didn't, you won't see HP or TQ figures on these charts.  You will see GAINS FROM STOCK, which is much more important.  
 
I WILL have an absolute back to back test, on the same day, on the same dyno, so don't worry.  For now though, I want to walk you through how this all went down.  I used 91 octane from Chevron exclusively for all this testing. 
 
 
 
This is my original dyno chart when my bike was first tuned at DynoJet.  You'll see that the stock bike with snorkel removed had good gains over stock.  Adding a little timing made it even better.  Then the timing was back to stock and the DNA filter and DNA airbox cover were installed and the bike made even better gains.
 
The take away from here is the Dark Blue line (completely stock bike), and the Dark Red line (completely stock bike with DNA air filter and DNA airbox cover).  You'll see the DNA filter and DNA airbox cover made great gains everywhere, especially in the midrange.
 

 
Ok, then we added the Akrapovic Titanium exhaust without baffle, and the Green line was the final result. 
 
 
 
Now that we know the DNA filter and DNA airbox cover worked great, I took it to my buddies shop a few months later to do some other work, and asked him if he could improve upon DynoJets' final tune (the Green line in the above dyno chart).  He did a baseline run with the final tune from DynoJet, and then tweaked their map a little.
 
 
 
Here were his results:
 

 
 
Slightly better everywhere.  He said the tune form DynoJet was very good to begin with, but was able to safely eek out a little bit more...probably because the tune from DynoJet is the one they used for their website for others to download, and was slightly more conservative since there could be different variables for people downloading that map across the country (fuel differences, different weather conditions such as altitude, temperature, humidity, etc.)
 
 
 
 
So this brings us up to date so far.
 
 
Last week I installed the MWR filter and brought the bike to my buddies shop.  He started with the DNA map, and optimized it for the MWR filter.  Here were the results...
 

 
 
The MWR filter was better everywhere by 1 hp.  He said the MWR filter liked to run ever so slightly leaner than the DNA filter.
 
He then told me specifically NOT to say the MWR was better, because the comparison wasn't apples to apples because the DNA dyno run was from a year ago and the conditions could have been different.
 
 
ARRGH.  I had to know unequivocally which filter was better, so...
 
 
I went back to the shop the next morning to finally get my answer.
 
LIke I said before, although the maps were still very, very close, the DNA map was slightly richer then the MWR map, so...
 
 
We did dyno runs with the DNA filter, and both maps, then we let the bike cool down, changed filters, and did dyno runs with the MWR filter and both maps.
 
 
This time I'll just type the results because the dyno chart was so close you can't see the differences.
 
 
DNA filter, DNA map: baseline
MWR filter, DNA map: + 0.6
 
DNA filter, MWR map:  + 0.7
MWR filter, MWR map:  + 1.1
 
 
This test shows that no matter what map was used, the MWR filter came out on top in each instance.
 
 

 
- Paulie
 

[hamster]

Thanks! Noted for future upgrade!

[sansnombre]

Great info. Thanks.
 
What's most intriguing to me from this info is the testing with stock vs. snorkel out. There has been LOTS of discussion on this site about how much, if any, is gained from removing it. This is solid info that out is better.
 
The only other question is snorkel out vs. "snorkel cut" to remove inner sleeve that blocks so much flow. I know with the snorkel cut, the sound is much quieter and I believe we remove the majority of the restriction from the snorkel. But it's likely more flow with it completely out, and esp with the DNA smoothed cover.
 
Thanks again for this write-up.

[pgeldz]

Great info. Thanks. 
What's most intriguing to me from this info is the testing with stock vs. snorkel out. There has been LOTS of discussion on this site about how much, if any, is gained from removing it. This is solid info that out is better.
 
The only other question is snorkel out vs. "snorkel cut" to remove inner sleeve that blocks so much flow. I know with the snorkel cut, the sound is much quieter and I believe we remove the majority of the restriction from the snorkel. But it's likely more flow with it completely out, and esp with the DNA smoothed cover.
 
Thanks again for this write-up.

 
 
 
No worries. Glad I could be of some help. I've heard that removing the snorkel entirely leaves a very abrupt edge/lip for airflow entry into the airbox which disrupts flow, and removing just the inner part leaves it a bit smoother. Not sure which is better as I didn't test that, but that's probably why the DNA cover has the radius lip to promote smoother airflow into the airbox.
 
I sent these results to MWR and they think the airbox is just too small overalll. They may be developing another solution for us to see if we can extract even more power. I told them I'd be happy to test it for them if they develop something
 
- Paulie
 
 

[markstertt]

I wonder if the air box is too small or is it just the opening in the air box is to small? Before removing my stock box for Hords, I measured the available space for a flat, top filter assy. I determined (roughly) that I could probably open the top up to 4"x 7" to accommodate a 3/4 " thick foam filter using my own home made frame. Reduce that dimension slightly for a radiused lip. My thought was to call Bracket aircraft filters to see if they would supply me with their fine preoiled foam in my dimension, if not then one of theirs large enough for me to cut to size. This would allow those wanting to keep the stock box and long intake runners to have better performance with a good filter.
 
If you're not familiar with Bracket filters, you buy their assy. once (for aircraft) and then from then on just replace the element with their preoiled foam. I use to be an aircraft mech. so I would save the used Bracket foam, clean and oil it and then use it as a prefilter in the hole opened up in the top of my DRZ400's air box. It is so effective that I rarely have to clean the main filter even though the Bracket foam is much coarser than typical m/c foam filters and offers no noticeable reduction in performance. However, it doesn't last forever and for aircraft never cleaned and reused, for my DRZ it's good for a few years with several cleanings.
 
However, once I installed the Hord box I lost interest in this exercise, especially after seeing what it takes to remove the stock box, to much work to switch back and forth just for comparison...maybe someday.
 
Good work on your filter comparison, it just proves that there are some extra ponies hiding in their.

[pgeldz]

I wonder if the air box is too small or is it just the opening in the air box is to small? Before removing my stock box for Hords, I measured the available space for a flat, top filter assy. I determined (roughly) that I could probably open the top up to 4"x 7" to accommodate a 3/4 " thick foam filter using my own home made frame. Reduce that dimension slightly for a radiused lip. My thought was to call Bracket aircraft filters to see if they would supply me with their fine preoiled foam in my dimension, if not then one of theirs large enough for me to cut to size. This would allow those wanting to keep the stock box and long intake runners to have better performance with a good filter.  
If you're not familiar with Bracket filters, you buy their assy. once (for aircraft) and then from then on just replace the element with their preoiled foam. I use to be an aircraft mech. so I would save the used Bracket foam, clean and oil it and then use it as a prefilter in the hole opened up in the top of my DRZ400's air box. It is so effective that I rarely have to clean the main filter even though the Bracket foam is much coarser than typical m/c foam filters and offers no noticeable reduction in performance. However, it doesn't last forever and for aircraft never cleaned and reused, for my DRZ it's good for a few years with several cleanings.
 
However, once I installed the Hord box I lost interest in this exercise, especially after seeing what it takes to remove the stock box, to much work to switch back and forth just for comparison...maybe someday.
 
Good work on your filter comparison, it just proves that there are some extra ponies hiding in their.

 
I think the opening is just too small...
 
I sent my findings to MWR and they agreed the opening is too small.  They said they might come up with a power up kit (replacement airbox perhaps?).
 
Time will tell.  For now though, at least I can say the MWR filter is a worthwhile upgrade as far as replacement filters go
 
- Paulie

[rowdy]

Thanks @pgeldz ! So to do the mod, you need the DNA cover and MWR filter correct? Any idea how these would work at altitude (4600')?
Also, do you have a preferred source for those particular parts?

[pgeldz]

Thanks @pgeldz ! So to do the mod, you need the DNA cover and MWR filter correct? Any idea how these would work at altitude (4600')? Also, do you have a preferred source for those particular parts?

No problem @rowdy !
 
Yes, so far, it looks like the DNA cover and MWR filter is one of the best combos out there without actually removing the airbox.
 
But it depends on the powerband you want.  If you look at the dyno charts from the cover/filter combo, and compare them to Hordpowers' replacement airbox solution, it looks like the cover/filter combo gives you a ton of midrange (where street riders spend most of their time), and the Hordpower solution gives you a ton of top end (where racers spend most of their time).
 
Hopefully if MWR comes up with a "Power Up" Kit it will do both...we can only hope
 
As for where to get this stuff...
 
As far as I know, you have to get the DNA Cover direct from them, as they don't have any US distributors.
 
The MWR Filters are available through BellissiMoto.  We are the US Distributor for MWR.
 

 
I hope to finish the bike by this weekend and go for a ride with the MWR filter and new tune.  Only things I have left are the slipper clutch, ceramic bearing shift arm, rear suspension link, and Spiegler brake lines.
 
To be honest though, I really don't think I'll notice a difference between a .5 to 1.0 HP gain.  The HealTech quickshifter and Yoyodyne slipper clutch though...now that's a different story...I'm looking forward to noticing those!
 

 
- Paulie

[markstertt]

Thanks for response, indeed compared to stock it is a worthwhile swap. Actually the Hord is not all top end, it has more torque and hp right through the entire stock powerband and you will definitely notice the approximately 10 hp extra (with ex. and tune as you have), you won't have to think about it, it pulls hard in all gears.
 
Now what I do find very interesting are your next mods, the QS, slipper clutch and the ceramic bearing shift arm. Is the shift arm you'
re referring to the internal shifter arm? Can't wait to hear what you think about these mods after testing...keep up the good work...Mark

[pgeldz]

Thanks for response, indeed compared to stock it is a worthwhile swap. Actually the Hord is not all top end, it has more torque and hp right through the entire stock powerband and you will definitely notice the approximately 10 hp extra (with ex. and tune as you have), you won't have to think about it, it pulls hard in all gears. 
Now what I do find very interesting are your next mods, the QS, slipper clutch and the ceramic bearing shift arm. Is the shift arm you'
re referring to the internal shifter arm? Can't wait to hear what you think about these mods after testing...keep up the good work...Mark

 
@markster ,
 
I didn't say the Hordpower is all top end, I said it gives a ton of top end
 
From the dyno charts I've seen, both solutions give great gains over the stock set up all throughout the rev range, but the BEST gains with the Hordpower design that Iv'e seen are biased toward the upper rev range, and the BEST gains I've seen with the cover/filter combo is more biased in the midrange. You can see what I mean here:
 
Hordpower Airbox:

 
 
 
Cover/Filter combo:
 

 
 
 
Yes, both solutions give great gains everywhere, but I think my statement still stands
 
 
As for the shifter arm, yes, it's the internal one, sometimes known as the shift detent arm. The stock one has a metal bushing on the end of it, and the new one has a ceramic bearing instead. It's supposed to prevent false neutrals and enable quicker shifts by x amount of miliseconds. I never had the false neutral issue, but if it does make shifts better I didn't think it could hurt when using the quickshifter
 
Here's what it looks like...stock on left, ceramic bearing version on right.
 

 

 
- Paulie

[rowdy]

Thanks for response, indeed compared to stock it is a worthwhile swap. Actually the Hord is not all top end, it has more torque and hp right through the entire stock powerband and you will definitely notice the approximately 10 hp extra (with ex. and tune as you have), you won't have to think about it, it pulls hard in all gears. 
Now what I do find very interesting are your next mods, the QS, slipper clutch and the ceramic bearing shift arm. Is the shift arm you'
re referring to the internal shifter arm? Can't wait to hear what you think about these mods after testing...keep up the good work...Mark

I ordered the DNA cover and MWR filter. Now, I probably need a PCV to get the most out of it.
 

[markstertt]

Paulie, I like what you've done testing wise, if I didn't have so many projects (most non motorcycle related) I'd like to mod the stock box, it's just that it's not real straight forward because of the tops irregularities, if it were flat all across it would be easier. However, it's a real pain getting the stock box in and out and once the Hord went in, well, it runs so well I lost interest. But from what Hord found on the dyno, those pursuing an inexpensive & real boost to low/midrange need to keep the stock box with it's long intake runners and go to the trouble of opening up the top and designing a decent non-restrictive air filter assy. Followed by a tune of course.
 
Thanks for the picture of the shift detent arm, where can I get one please? Mark

[markstertt]

Paulie, I like what you've done testing wise, if I didn't have so many projects (most non motorcycle related) I'd like to mod the stock box, it's just that it's not real straight forward because of the tops irregularities, if it were flat all across it would be easier. However, it's a real pain getting the stock box in and out and once the Hord went in, well, it runs so well I lost interest. But from what Hord found on the dyno, those pursuing an inexpensive & real boost to low/midrange need to keep the stock box with it's long intake runners and go to the trouble of opening up the top and designing a decent non-restrictive air filter assy. Followed by a tune of course. 
Thanks for the picture of the shift detent arm, where can I get one please? Mark

Rowdy, yes I believe so, I'm not sure how the PCV supplied maps compare to Hordpowers maps but it would appear that a big part of making good power with this engine is not just FI tuning but also better ignition mapping. Follow catfish's posts on his adventures with the tuning of his -07 and you'll learn a lot about the state of the ecu flashing and where it stands at the moment vs. other methods. It's only going to get better. 

[pgeldz]

Paulie, I like what you've done testing wise, if I didn't have so many projects (most non motorcycle related) I'd like to mod the stock box, it's just that it's not real straight forward because of the tops irregularities, if it were flat all across it would be easier. However, it's a real pain getting the stock box in and out and once the Hord went in, well, it runs so well I lost interest. But from what Hord found on the dyno, those pursuing an inexpensive & real boost to low/midrange need to keep the stock box with it's long intake runners and go to the trouble of opening up the top and designing a decent non-restrictive air filter assy. Followed by a tune of course. 
Thanks for the picture of the shift detent arm, where can I get one please? Mark

 
 
 
Thanks for the kind words Mark. I've sent my results to MWR and they agree that the airbox opening is just too small on our bikes.  Although the filter/cover combo works very good, I think they are going to develop a "Power Up Kit" for our bikes, which will most likely involve opening up the airbox a little bit. Well see.
 
As for the ceramic bearing shift arm, I got mine form Andy at AP Motoarts, but if he is out of stock, you can get them here:
 
Factory Pro FZ-07 Hybrid Ceramic Bearing Shift Arm
 
 

 
- Paulie

[markstertt]

Power Up Kit- that will be interesting to see what they come up with. Thanks for info on the shifter detent arm, Factory Pro was the name I couldn't remember...Mark

[Tomasdvo]

Can anybody please meassure dimmensions of opening in MWR filter? I want to make my own lid before the filter arrives.