Volt meter/ USB mod

[jake]

So I copied this off another rider thought it was a good Idea and did it my own way.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371706664462?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KU2U750/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9Y633G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPPMO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used a dremel tool to cut out the bottom of the boxes and glued them together then cut out the cover to fit the switch.
I drilled a hole and used the glands to make the box more water proof.
I use the Velcro to mount it to the side of my gauge cluster.
I no longer use my rear plate light so I wired it directly to that made things so much nicer so I didn't have to find a power wire that was only on when the bike was on or make another location for it.
Not exactly what I had envisioned but its works. I was hoping to find a rocker switch box that would suit my need and that was harder than expected. The Velcro works ok but not as secure as I'd like might change that later.



 
 

[rick]

Nice, I like it. Also saves ya from stashing a 5v phone charger.
 
I hate flying blind.
 
I mounted a Kuryakin volt monitor https://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-4218-Black-Battery-Gauge/dp/B000GU5WNO to the back of the master cyl reservoir on a small piece of aluminum angle via 2-sided foam tape and powered it with the aux plug.
 
 
 
 

[gregjet]

Not being smart, but why do you need a volt meter on an alternator equipped bike? Is it for the initial battery condition before starting?
 

[jake]

Not being smart, but why do you need a volt meter on an alternator equipped bike? Is it for the initial battery condition before starting?

It informs you that the charging system is working properly, Its just like the oil pressure gauge the bike has just lets you know that the oil system is working ....... I was being a smart aZZ
 

[rick]

And if ya ride with heated gear and other exrtra stuff drawing amps, on a bike with a moderately sized wattage output, it's nice to know if/when you've plugged in too many toys

[gregjet]

You would have to be loading it pretty severely nowdays wouldn't you ( except for dirt bikes). Most modern alternators have pretty good output. And alternators will try and keep the voltage up any way, until the current gets too high. Even with modern LED spotties which draw stuff all. A 65W spottie is REALLY bright. Phones and GPS draw stuff all. Admittedly the current ( sorry) ECU's can draw a bit .

[rick]

Dunno what this alternator puts out, but say 400 watts - but it could be as little as 360 (30amps @ 12v) So, headlight, running lights/turn signals, ecu, fuel pump, multiple relays, injectors, coils, radiator fan, abs if ya got, dash, etc., when you start adding stuff up, I think you'll find that a 60 watt heated jacket liner might be pushing the wattage limits. Add in heated grips and the wattage max imight we'll be exceeded. At that point the battery will lose ground - the alternator can only generate so much.
 
I'd rather have a voltmeter tell me and not the starter motor.

[jake]

Its just piece of mind. The more information the better IMO.

[gregjet]

A 60w jacket heater....hmmm. Guess that could add a load. Never had that problem in Queensland.
Most of the other described stuff is only gonna be a bit over a couple of hundred watts from a quick head count. Relays , admittedly there are a few on this bike, don't draw much on the switching side and the load is the same regardless of relayed or not. Haven't measured the 07 ECU but both the ER6N and VTR250 ecu's drew about 5 amps max ( 60w).
EFI pump could be a biggie , I suppose as I haven't ever had to measure or play with it on any bike, except for a tank transfer pump on on my Husky ( 2 x 10l side tanks) . It was an aftermarket external one and pretty inefficient but only draws 4 amps max ( ie 48W).
I think an ammeter at the battery might give you a more useful reading ( like the old cars used to have). Just a thought.

[rick]

Just had a look in the service manual. At 5k RPM, the alternator is rated 29.3amps, 14V. Quick math translates that to 410 watts. If the actual charge voltage is higher, so will be the output as the regulator can handle 50amps.
 
These MOSFET type RRs are far more reliable than what they replaced, but I still like to know what's going on - just in case.
 
Anyway, that's a decent output for a non-touring nekkid. That this bikes has only one fan (not so much needed when it's frigid out enough to be wearing heated clothes), 2 coils and an LED stop light to feed also helps. My Aprilia has 2 fans, and 4 coils (2 per cylinder) and in the summer with the brake light (2 incandescent bulbs) on I can watch charge voltage drop from 14.2 down into the 12s if the fans kick on while sitting at a light
 
The starter motor is rated at a whopping 500 watts, so guys who are doing short hops in cold weather while using heated grips and maybe a heated vest (probably only 35 watts for a vest) might want to be careful to not run the battery down (float chargers are wonderful things). But i suspect most of us won't be running the charge system at a deficit with accessories.
 
iirc, my Dad's 1964(when dinosaurs roamed the earth, lol) Dodge had an ammeter like that, lol. It was just a centered pointer. To the right of center showed a happy charge, to the left of center meant the battery was getting sucked upon.