Premium Member V8titanpwr Posted September 8, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted September 8, 2014 Things you will need: - 3 qts of motorcycle oil (your choice, I use Valvoline 4 stroke, 10w-40) - Oil filter (I used Fram PH6017A) - A funnel - Oil catch can - 17mm wrench - Oil filter wrench I use a swingarm stand to put the bike upright. You can use whatever you feel comfortable with. Start by letting the bike warm up for a few minutes to get the oil cycling through. Shut the bike off and locate the oil filler cap and the oil drain bolt at the bottom front of the engine. Take the filler cap off as it helps the oil to move freely through the engine to drain out. Place your catch can underneath the drain bolt and take your 17mm wrench and remove the bolt from the engine. The bolt will be extremely tight so you can either do this before you raise the bike or after, whichever you are more comfortable with. Once you have removed the drain bolt you will see the oil start to flow, so go grab a beer and give yourself 5-10 minutes for it to completely drain. Once the oil has stopped flowing, take your oil filter wrench and remove the filter. I found it easier to take the coolant tank off just to give myself some more room. Once you are getting no more oil from the filter area, go ahead and install your new oil filter. Take a small amount of oil and rub it on the gasket before installation. I don't use a wrench to put the new filter on, I go as much as I can hand tightening as not to cause any damage. Once you have your new filter on you can go ahead and put your drain bolt back in. I usually replace the washer gasket every oil change but seeing as this is the first service and it's such low mileage, I will be reusing the old one. Time to put in some fresh oil. Double check your filter and drain bolt are securely tightened. Take your funnel and place it on the fill hole. You can go ahead and pur the first two quarts in, your not going to touch the mark yet. When it comes to putting the third quart of oil in, you will want to add slowly and make sure you don't overfill. You will be putting in anywhere from 2.4 to 2.7 quarts. The filler gauge is located right by the filter on the side. You want to go just below the upper lines. Once you have filled to spec, put the filler cap back on let the bike run for a minute or two allowing the oil to move through the engine. You will moist likely be sitting low again, just top up unitl you are just below the upper line again. Congratulations, you just changed your own oil! Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Guru Posted September 8, 2014 Global Moderator Share Posted September 8, 2014 Great write-up again! Thank you sir. I changed the oil last week. It's a simply job but I forgot to take pictures, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member V8titanpwr Posted September 8, 2014 Author Premium Member Share Posted September 8, 2014 No worries Guru, I got you covered. Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olderthandirt Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 You DO NOT want to fill that oil up to the top line. There is still some old oil in the top end of the motor that takes all night to drain down to the oil pan. If you fill it with new oil up to the top line on the sight glass....the next morning you can check the oil and it will be way ABOVE the line. TOO MUCH OIL. Instead....install new oil filter first, and then fill it with fresh oil to the bottom line on the sight glass. Start the bike up and let it run for a minute. This will pump oil into the empty oil filer. Wait 10 minutes...check oil level. Fill up to the BOTTOM line. Then check oil again the next day...and adjust as necessary. Congress is the only whore house in the United States that loses money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member V8titanpwr Posted September 8, 2014 Author Premium Member Share Posted September 8, 2014 I've never had a problem with over filling but that's some really great advice for anyone who is new to this and still unsure, thanks olderthandirt. Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeisan Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Man, V8... you're on a roll today! Nice job again! Life is good on 2 wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted September 8, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted September 8, 2014 I'll add that a strap wrench makes it a lil easier. The reservoir isn't in the way while using it. Also, and this is just me, I'm sure some will testify to it being a waste.. but I pour 1/4 of a bottle of fresh oil in after the old oil is drained. I had a bit more fouled oil come out that way. It's not 100% of it, but any extra is good and I hate having a 1/4 bottle of oil sitting in my shop. I forget it, then have several bottles floating around. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmucat Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Great write up for the newbies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassecou Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 That's exactly how to do it. Thanks for the refresher. On a plus note, oil filter and drain plug can just be hand tight. The heat from the oil and the engine will make everything expand, so, everything will become tighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member pgeldz Posted September 8, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted September 8, 2014 I agree with olderthandirt on this one. Also, per the manual, the oil filter gets torqued to 12 ft-lbs, and the oil drain bolt is torqued to 31 ft-lbs. - Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest unknown Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I thought I replied to this but I guess not. Make sure to clean off the area where the oil filter mounts. It can get some road grime and grit on it that may mess with the new filters' seal. I did 2 weeks ago and ran into this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
girkmonster Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Make sure that you know your tools. For example, if you are inclined to use a torque wrench to tignten the drain plug (factory recommended, but I will never do so again), make sure you know the rating for your wrench. They are not accurate near the lower end of their ratings. You can crack your pan by trying to properly torque the plug using a wrench that is rated too high. Don't ask how I know this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 When I drain my oil, I let it drip for about 15 minutes, and tilt my bike from side to side, careful not to drop it. Then, I click my starter button on and off really quick. I don't let the engine run of course, just cycle it and shut off right away really fast. I do this twice only. This get's almost all the old oil out. Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter. Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rmdet Posted November 3, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted November 3, 2014 Changed oil and filter tonight during commercial breaks of "Walking Dead" x_x. As others noted, it is a very quick & easy job. Rubber strap wrench worked great for removal. Used the K&N 303 filter. Slightly longer than the OEM but clearance is not an issue. 10-40 used & added about 2.6 quarts. Unfortunately, it is JUST a bit over the high level mark (checked again after a quick 15 min ride). I will probably start with 2.4-2.5 quarts next time - easier to add than remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fzyurkoc Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 This is great advice! This will be my first bike oil change! So is every 3k miles too much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member effzee07 Posted November 6, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted November 6, 2014 I do not think you can really change your oil too much. Im still old fashioned. Cars nowadays say you can go like 5-7k between oil changes....not me. I still stick with 3, and on my bikes I do it when "i feel the need"...usually well under 3k. Same with my mowers. Check out my FZ07 YouTube Channel!! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClbkk7kPsXp-lhZ_XD_aFPQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryv Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Changing oil on our FZ's ie EZ. Helped my son change the oil on his 2011 R6. OMG what a pain in the arse. Entire fairing has to be removed and naturally some gorilla overtightened one of the allen head bolts on the fairing. Stripped out the allen head. Tried using one of those "as seen on TV" kits the drill out the bolt, then you flip the bit an reverse out the bolt. No dice, too damned tight. Had to dremmel a slot in the head of the bolt and use a BIG screw driver, which eventually worked. Then you need to remove the shift linkage to get at the filter, which is so recessed you can't get a strap wrench on it. Have one of those filter wrenches that goes over the top of the filter; of course that did not bite and kept slipping. Added a layer of tape to provide more friction. Ended up being a 3 hour oil change. lol. Reminds me why I like to ride NAKED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
none Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Just did mine, it was so easy I was triple checking myself to make sure I did not forget something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potatochips Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 When I drain my oil, I let it drip for about 15 minutes, and tilt my bike from side to side, careful not to drop it. Then, I click my starter button on and off really quick. I don't let the engine run of course, just cycle it and shut off right away really fast. I do this twice only. This get's almost all the old oil out. Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter. Hand tighten the drain bolt??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member No Hater Posted June 18, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 18, 2015 When I drain my oil, I let it drip for about 15 minutes, and tilt my bike from side to side, careful not to drop it. Then, I click my starter button on and off really quick. I don't let the engine run of course, just cycle it and shut off right away really fast. I do this twice only. This get's almost all the old oil out. Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter. Hand tighten the drain bolt???I too like to live dangerously but, not sure if Im that bold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Goose1072 Posted June 18, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 18, 2015 I use one of these when changing the oil on my bike Ratio Rite Measuring Cup The cup goes to 500cc and on the side of the oil pan you will see 2300 stamped. So I put in 2400cc, a 100 because of the new filter and have always made it to the middle of the glass which I think is perfect. I also use Maxima Premium Engine Oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassecou Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hand tighten the drain bolt???I too like to live dangerously but, not sure if Im that bold. By hand tight, we mean tight by hand using a wrench, but not too tight, snug will do. No need for a specific torque wrench, which is the ultimate. This can be applied to most situations. In doubt, tight it snug, and 99% of the time, it will be perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted June 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 19, 2015 Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter. Hand tighten the drain bolt? I'm pretty sure the torque specs on the drain bolt are way higher than my human hands and fingers can do. [edit] Never mind, I saw you meant with a wrench. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member No Hater Posted June 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 19, 2015 I too like to live dangerously but, not sure if Im that bold. By hand tight, we mean tight by hand using a wrench, but not too tight, snug will do. No need for a specific torque wrench, which is the ultimate. This can be applied to most situations. In doubt, tight it snug, and 99% of the time, it will be perfect. Copy....I do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member motomeek Posted June 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 19, 2015 Thanks for the How To! I followed this last week when I did the oil change (my first one ever!). It was so easy... A few days later, I did my CBR250R's (for the first time), and that was a pain. DAMN those fairings!! Like really, you have to hide the oil filter behind the lower cowl that has a bolt connected to the fairing on top, that I'd have to remove in order to make it more accessible? I just wedge my two little hands through an opening by removing one bolt off the lower cowl to finagle the thing. I needed an extra set of hands to get the filter back on. BTW, is it normal for oil filter wrenches to "SQUEEZE" the filter when trying to remove it? The poor thing was all dented when I got it off. Instagram: @meekmade | You don't need to flat foot a bike to ride it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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