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How to: install a basic alarm system and prep your DC aux


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This is a how-to to install a basic BlueFire alarm system and how to add a switch to your stock auxiliary DC power connector so it can power something useful but still be switched off while the bike is on.
Tools you will need:
Beer (always the most important tool in the bag IMO)
Needle nose pliers
Small skinny hard metal tool like these
Heat gun
Soldering iron and solder (and Flux if you want)
Heat shrink (see below if you want a big kit)
Electrical tape
Spare wire
Wire cutters/wire strippers
Hex keys/sockets to remove body panels and seat to gain access to aux connector and battery
See this thread first: How to use your aux connector

This is a quick how to for a cheap but effective alarm system available on Amazon here: Bluefire alarm 
I used  from Amazon so I can switch off power to the auxiliary device(s).
My planned auxiliary devices were simple LED strips from Amazon: [url=]Cheapo LED strips  
I got some  from Amazon for this project. 
I bought solder and a soldering iron from Harbor Freight. 
It is a simple motion alarm. It has features for remote starting and turn signal activation, but that's too complicated and unnecessary for me. It is remotely activated and disarmed. For $18 it's an absolute no-brainer. 
Unfortunately, my first one died about 2 months after I got it. It would go off on its own soon after arming it. I suspect it was because the alarm module got wet and was ruined. So this time, I disassembled the module, removed the wires I wasn't going to use, and sealed the box with glue all the way round before reassembly. Then I glued the rubber boot the wires exit the module so it was watertight. 
You'll see here the white is from the glue drying. I pushed the wires through all adjacent holes. The kit comes with a simple wiring diagram. Red and black are positive and ground, a special black is the antenna, and the two white are the alarm's positive and ground. 
You'll need terminal connectors from Autozone or similar - they're simple metal circles you put under the screws of the battery. Use the included wiring and crimp the red and black wires to terminals, then install the terminals under the posts. Simply unscrew each post, place the terminal underneath, and replace the post. Then run the wires up underneath the seat area to the rear storage area. I put the speaker on the underside of the between seat area. I used the stuff you use to mount and EZ Pass so I could remove it. 
So that's the alarm installation. Really that's all. Simply provide it with power and secure the sensor module and the speaker somewhere inside the machine. That's it. Now for the aux cord. 
The DC aux port as shown in the thread linked above, is 12V at 2 amps and it is switched on the ignition. So when the keys are out it has no power. Very handy if you don't want to kill your battery with some accessory. I use a simple  USB charger secured to the battery posts so the most common use for this aux port is unnecessary for me. Instead I plan to use it for ornamental lights for visibility and the cool factor. I certainly don't want those on when the bike is off! I also want to be able to turn the lights off easily whenever I don't want them - day time or in a state that doesn't allow any extra lights, for example. 
So the aux port actually comes with the corresponding mate already attached, but without any wires. Rubber plugs are in place to seal it and are easily removed. 
I mentioned my first alarm I bought broke. The seller sent me another for free. So I have all of this extra wire and modular connectors. Why not use them? I took out the male and female wires and their crimps from the plastic housing from the alarm. The blades fit in the OEM Yamaha bike side plug just fine. To remove the female and male wires simply reach into them with a thin tool to push down the integrated metal tab that locks them in. Then pull them out. See pics below to illustrate that. You'll use the blades from the extra wires as your new wires for the blank plug. 
See the tab there? That's your target while the wire is still in the modular plastic plug. It's also what will hold the wire in its new Yamaha home. 
This is the blank plug that comes with the bike. The plugs have been removed. Your goal is to put the blades into those holes with the tabs facing up so they catch on the other side of the plastic inside. You will have to cut the little tabs of metal on the sides of the blade so it fits in the plug. Then the tab will hold it in place in the plug. 
Now for the switch. There are 3 poles: ground, load (the things to be switched) and the supply (constant power from the bike). 
Now you need to heat shrink the wires to the plug so it is water resistant. Remember to arrange your heat shrink BEFORE you start soldering! And test the connection for continuity before you solder. Plug the plug you made in, and then twist the wires to an LED strip or use a multimeter. Remember to turn  the ignition on! If it comes on, all is well. If not, remove the plug and check for bent blades. Be sure the blades are finding their homes in the Yamaha bike side plug.
I ended up with something like this:
mAGdBXs.jpg I used Grey for ground and yellow for positive. But you can use whatever. The LED strips I picked use red and black so I wanted to use other colors to avoid confusion when I start soldering the switch. 
This is not a tutorial for how to solder. But I will say this was my first big soldering project alone. Quick tip would be to hold the iron to the wire and the object and hold for at least 30 seconds longer than you think you need. Only then should you apply solder. You can then use the iron to push it like paint into the area to be joined. At least, that's how I did it, but I'm new and not very good at it. You'll figure it out. What you want is this:
You should notice the yellow is the bike side positive going to the "supply" post, and the red is the output or "load" post. But the supply and load share the ground post. I bent them out a little with some pliers so they'd be easier to solder. 
This is another angle. Notice the exposed copper of the load post can touch the adjacent ground post when you squeeze the posts back together. I put same electrical tape between them to act as an insulator and prevent contact. 
Now you can run your heat shrink up the wires and be ready to shrink them with the heat gun. Remember to run the new red and black output wires from the switch underneath the heat shrink! And start from the innermost layer of heat shrink and then slip on outer layers... Don't try to heat it all at once. 
When you're all done, test your work one more time by turning the ignition on and then flipping the switch. Even if there is nothing connected d to the output of the switch it will light up through LED to let you know power is available! 
And that's it! What you do with your new auxiliary power supply is up to you! The world is your oyster. 

his face seems pulled and tense
like he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds

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